(Paging) Axle (Foley) Maintenance
As I continue with how I maintain my rides this time I’ll take a look at how my RC’s receive power from my DualSky motors all the way to my Pro-Line Tires. While this is simpler than going through the shocks, it is a little more time intensive than a slipper. All in all it will get you flying higher and digging deeper just like when your ride was new.
When Ray at Speedy’s Racing Parts sent me some of his Speed Grease my first thought was it would be perfect hair gel? I had no idea that is was really for the MIP CVD Pucks kit that I was building. The nice thing is that it can be used for ball diffs as well, and I have, with success.
The first step in this process is obvious, remove them from your ride. For me I am going to be doing my B5m since my Pro-Line PRO-2 was re-done recently; but I will still give a tip or two on that particular ride.
Let’s be honest here, there are a lot of parts when it comes to an MIP Pucks kit but if you take your time and lay everything out its as easy as getting a set of Electrons to hook up.
The first thing I do after they are free is to wipe everything down and then inspect each and every individual piece as they are assembled in so many ways. What this does is allows you to see if there is a problem area or if one of the orange Pucks needs replaced. Mine are still golden after more than a few track days. For this write-up, given their condition, the Pucks were left alone. The rest of the pieces were disassembled, left and right kept separate, and then cleaned. Even the screws that hold everything together are wiped off and given a new coat of threadlock. If you are going this far why not take that step? I use que-tips to clean large amounts of grease out and then brake cleaner is used for the rest of it. My eyes were free of grease so I didn’t clean them out this time.
During the assembly process I use large amounts of Ray’s Speed Grease and here is why. It’s like pizza, if you don’t have enough you want more, if you have more you can leave some for later.
I fill up the axle cups and the hole in the CVD for the barrel pretty full. The excess will come out, simple as that. When I place the barrel into the CVD bone, I take what is pushed out and then coat the ball shaped end with it. I also take the axle pin, the B5 series axle pin will work in the PRO-2 CVD’s, and push it through the grease so I have an idea of where it goes when I match up the axle and bone. Once I push them together even more grease is pushed out and you now have both assembled CVD’s and a complete mess at the same time!
Remember to use thread-lock with each screw that goes into any kind of metal and you’ve got this beat.
And now that I have this done I am cheering wildly for Jordan Taylor to win the 24 Hours of Lemans because he said he might grow his mullet back if he brings home the W.
