One of the most anticipated RC vehicles for 2014 is here. The Axial Yeti! The Yeti is storming onto the RC Scene catering to the Rock Crawling / High Speed Rock Racing Scene. The truck boast’s many new features and some innovative designs, however, there is plenty of room for upgrades and Pro-Line Racing has you covered.
In Part 1, we’re mainly going to cover the front suspension as well as some other possible conversions to help your Yeti function and perform better over all conditions.
Surprisingly, the Yeti’s front suspension comes with molded Plastic camber and steering links. I replaced these with our 6102-00 PRO-2 Hard Anodized Pivot Ball and Rod end set, 6062-06 ProTrac 50mm x 4mm Camber links and 6082-02 60mm x 4mm Turnbuckles for the steering links. This combination will eliminate the flexing that the plastic links are prone for and allow for adjustability of the front suspension. The hardened balls that come with the 6102-00 Kit are slightly wider than stock but you can pop out the OEM balls from the stock plastic rods and re-use them in the 6102-00 Rod ends for a direct fit using the stock mounting hardware.
Since this front end is going to get a workout, I upgraded the stock front shocks to our 6308-30 Pro-Spec Big Bore Front Shocks. In mounting them, I went with the optional 6308-15 Super Hard Purple springs and the longer Rode ends from our 6060-01 Scale Crawler Plastic parts tree. The shocks look great and will perform even better.
Due to their extremely long length, the Stock Rear shocks will have to stay for now, but we will look into a possible further upgrade for this area as well in the near future.
To create Secure-Loc type body mounts for the Yeti, I modified one of our 6305-00 TEN-SCTE SCTE 2.0 Body mount / Secure Loc Cap Kit. You will need to ream out the existing Yeti Front body mount bridge to the size of the 6305-00 post diameter. The locking pin holes on the post will also need to be slightly reamed out to the size of the Yeti Anchor post pin. To make the posts fit around the internal cage, I dremeled and sanded the edges down for a smooth finish. They hold extremely well with no exposed body pins to get snagged and pulled loose. Best of all, they look as good as they function.
For the rear mounts, I simply cut the top of the post off just below the body pin hole. I then drilled a smaller pilot hole to get the stud hole centered, then drilled a 3/16” hole slightly smaller than the mounting stud. Screw the stud in half of its length leaving the other half exposed.
Looking to improve traction of your Yeti? Don’t forget to check out our line of 2.2” Interco TSL Super Swamper’s. We have them available in 5.40” OAD (Item 1166-14), and the new 5.80” OAD XL (Item 10107-14) Sizes.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this article as much as I did building this truck. If you have any questions, please feel free to drop me a line at firstname.lastname@example.org
Be sure to check out all of these cool accessories Pro-Line Racing has to offer at http://www.prolineracing.com/